【藏品名稱】：歐珀金耳飾
[collection name]: opperkin Earrings
【藏品數量】：一對
[collection quantity]: a pair
【藏品簡介】：明清是中國封建王朝的最后兩個時代，這一時期的特點是經濟發展集千年于大成，擁有著璀璨的藝術文明表現，在飾品方面也有著很大的變化。服裝與飾品是最能體現政治背景以及朝代變遷的東西。很多人們的思想與喜好都能在服裝和飾品上體現出來。而耳飾的歷史也非常久遠，佩戴耳飾的習慣在中國的起源史書中并沒有明確的記載，但可以確定原始時期人們就已經知道用耳飾來美化自己，或者借由圖騰和紋樣意義起到保佑的作用，且佩戴者不分男女。耳飾在明清兩個時期，人們也不都是為美觀而佩戴，更多的佩戴者是想借由耳飾凸顯自己的身份與階級背景。
[introduction to collection]: Ming and Qing Dynasties are the last two periods of Chinese feudal dynasties. The characteristics of this period are that the economic development of this period has a thousand years in Dacheng, it has a brilliant expression of artistic civilization, and it also has great changes in jewelry. Clothing and accessories are the things that can best reflect the political background and the changes of dynasties. Many people's thoughts and preferences can be reflected in clothing and accessories. The history of earrings is very long, and the habit of wearing earrings is not clearly recorded in the history of the origin of China, but it can be determined that in the primitive period, people already knew to use earrings to beautify themselves, or to protect themselves by totem and pattern meaning, and the wearers were not male or female. In Ming and Qing Dynasties, people didn't wear earrings for beauty, but more people wanted to highlight their identity and class background by earrings.
耳飾為金質，上端為球圓環，環下有類似五瓣花形墜蓋，，底部有花形紐。所嵌歐珀珠皆圓潤有光、顆粒均勻。清后期西方文化的傳入，各種西式的材料和工藝被采用，如鉆石、琉璃、琺瑯等材料在耳飾上也變得常見。清代對寶石的處理是打磨自然原型為主，以金屬為托，配合輕微的捉嵌。晚清之后西方的寶石切割與寶石鑲嵌工藝明顯影響了中國的首飾制造，從晚清保留下來的“琥珀鑲金耳飾”上，有著明顯的西方的刻面型手工法和抓爪珠寶鑲嵌的工藝。
The earrings are made of gold, with a ball ring at the top, a five petal flower shaped falling cover at the bottom and a flower shaped button at the bottom. The embedded opal beads are round, bright and uniform. With the introduction of western culture in the late Qing Dynasty, a variety of Western materials and crafts were used, such as diamond, glass, enamel and other materials in earrings also became common. In the Qing Dynasty, the treatment of gemstones was mainly to polish the natural prototype, with metal as the support and slight inlay. After the late Qing Dynasty, the Western gem cutting and gem inlay technology obviously affected the jewelry manufacturing in China. From the "Amber inlaid gold earrings" preserved in the late Qing Dynasty, there are obvious Western faceted manual method and claw jewelry inlay technology.
清代耳飾的習俗一是與皇家禮制有著密切關系，不同級別佩戴的珠寶和款式登記有嚴格的規定;二是和滿族的習俗相關聯，流行一耳三鉗（清中后期逐漸發展為一耳一鉗和仿一耳三鉗的樣式），且在材質的選擇上也是非常昂貴。耳飾紋樣承襲了明代各種寓意吉祥的紋樣，但是又不同于明代的簡約，皇家紋飾運用如龍首、古獸等圖案，用復雜的紋樣設計承托首飾的華貴。耳飾佩戴數量也成為了區分滿漢的標志，清代宮廷耳飾和明代最不同的就是款式單一，不同品階的后妃佩戴的耳飾除了珠寶本身的等級之外，銜珠處的金飾也只有金龍和金云的不同，宮廷耳飾的樣式非常的統一。且宮廷耳飾對“東珠”非常看重，只有皇帝的母親、嬪位以上及皇太子妃才可以佩戴東珠制成的耳飾，且品質有等級，以東珠的等級區分尊卑。滿族女子一耳三鉗的形象，從很多清代流傳下來的后妃畫像中可以見到。清代耳飾亦有環形耳鉗、墜環耳鉗等。清代也有許多的耳飾樣式沿襲了明代的款式，但也凸顯了鮮明的時代特色，清代耳飾環體更加豐富，墜飾也相對復雜，紋飾更加多樣化。此外清代最具特色的首飾裝飾就是“點翠”，是用翠鳥羽毛貼綴在表面來增加美觀的一種工藝。除了東珠和點翠，清代耳飾用到的寶石種類也是非常多，如珍珠、瑪瑙、玉石、翡翠、珊瑚、綠松石、琥珀、碧璽、水晶等天然寶石。
The custom of earrings in Qing Dynasty is closely related to the Royal etiquette system. There are strict regulations on the registration of jewelry and styles worn at different levels; Second, it is related to the Manchu customs, popular one ear three tongs (gradually developed into one ear one tongs and imitation one ear three tongs in the middle and late Qing Dynasty), and the choice of material is also very expensive. The patterns of earrings inherit all kinds of auspicious patterns of Ming Dynasty, but they are different from the simplicity of Ming Dynasty. The Royal patterns use patterns such as dragon head, ancient beast and so on, and use complex patterns to support the luxury of jewelry. The number of earrings worn has also become a symbol to distinguish the Manchu and Han Dynasties. The most difference between the Qing Dynasty court earrings and the Ming Dynasty earrings is the single style. The earrings worn by Empresses of different grades are not only different in the level of the jewelry itself, but also different in the gold ornaments at the bead holding position. The style of the court earrings is very unified. Only the emperor's mother, concubines and princesses can wear the earrings made of Dongzhu. The quality of the earrings is graded, and the level of Dongzhu can distinguish the superior from the inferior. The image of Manchu women with one ear and three tongs can be seen in many portraits of empresses handed down from the Qing Dynasty. In Qing Dynasty, there were ring ear forceps, falling ring ear forceps and so on. In the Qing Dynasty, many Earrings followed the Ming style, but also highlighted the distinctive characteristics of the times. The earrings in the Qing Dynasty were more abundant, the pendants were relatively complex, and the patterns were more diversified. In addition, the most distinctive jewelry decoration of the Qing Dynasty is "Diancui", which is a kind of craft of sticking kingfisher feathers on the surface to increase the beauty. Besides Dongzhu and Diancui, there are many kinds of gems used in earrings in Qing Dynasty, such as pearl, agate, jade, jadeite, coral, turquoise, amber, tourmaline, crystal and other natural gems.
