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由兩股簪子交叉組合成的一種首飾。用來綰住頭發,也有用它把帽子別在頭發上。五代五縞《中華古今注·釵子》:“釵子,蓋古笄之遺象也,至秦穆公以象牙為之,敬王以玳瑁為之,始皇又金銀作鳳頭,以玳瑁為腳,號曰鳳釵。”

A kind of jewelry composed of two hairpins. It's used to tie up the hair. It's also used to pin the hat on the hair. "Chai Zi is a relic of the ancient hairpin. To the Duke mu of Qin Dynasty, it was made of ivory. To the king, it was made of tortoise shell. To the first emperor, it was made of gold and silver. To the tortoise shell, it was called Yuefeng hairpin."

2021-06-22 17:02:45.301000

釵與簪是有區別的,發簪作成一股,而發釵一般作成兩股。釵不僅是一種飾物,它還是一種寄情的表物。

Hairpin and hairpin are different. Hairpin is made into one strand, while hairpin is usually made into two strands. Hairpin is not only a kind of ornament, but also a kind of token of affection.

 

古代戀人或夫妻之間有一種贈別的習俗:女子將頭上的釵一分為二,一半贈給對方,一半自留,待到他日重見再合在一起。辛棄疾詞《祝英臺近.晚春》中的“寶釵分,桃葉渡,煙柳暗南浦”,即在表述這種離情。

In ancient times, there was a custom of parting between lovers or husband and wife: a woman divided the hairpin on her head into two parts, half gave it to each other, half kept it for herself, and then reunited with her when she saw her again in the future. In Xin Qiji's Ci Zhu Yingtai near late spring, "baochaifen, taoyedu, yanliuan Nanpu" expresses this kind of separation.

2021-06-22 17:02:57.605000

發釵的普及大約在西漢晚期,自此以后,它一直是我國婦女的主要頭飾之一,直至今天,發釵在婦女的梳妝品中仍占有一席之地,比如現在的發夾,就是由發釵演變而來的。

The popularity of hairpin was about in the late Western Han Dynasty. Since then, it has always been one of the main headwear for women in our country. Up to now, hairpin still occupies a place in women's dressing products. For example, the present hairpin is evolved from hairpin.

 

發釵除了在質料及長短上有所區別外,更主要的特點還在于釵首上的不同裝飾。如在釵首雕鑿蟠龍之形,即為“蟠龍釵”。晉崔豹《古今注》中就有“蟠龍釵,梁冀婦所制”的記載;在釵首裝飾鸞鳥,也為歷代婦女所崇尚。尤其在結婚首飾中,更為常見,因為鸞鳥在民間一直被視為吉祥之禽。飾有鸞鳥的發釵,被稱為“鸞釵”。

Besides the differences in material and length, the main feature of hairpin is the different decoration on the hairpin head. If the head of the hairpin is carved in the shape of a flat dragon, it is called "flat dragon hairpin". There is a record of "Panlong hairpin, made by Liang Ji's wife" in Cui Bao's Gu Jin Zhu; The decoration of Luan birds on the hairpin head was also advocated by women of all dynasties. Especially in the wedding jewelry, it is more common, because Luan bird has been regarded as the auspicious bird in the folk. The hairpin decorated with Luan bird is called "Luan hairpin".

 

發釵的安插也有多種方法,有的橫插,有的豎插,有的斜插,也有自下而上倒插的。所插數量也不盡一致,既可安插兩支,左右各一支;也可插上數支,視發髻需要而定,最多的在兩鬢各插六支,合為十二支。

There are also many ways to insert hairpin, some horizontally, some vertically, some obliquely, and some upside down. The number of inserts is not the same, either two can be inserted, one on the left and one on the right; You can also insert a few, depending on the needs of the bun, up to six in the temples, combined into 12.

2021-06-22 17:03:07.213000

在收藏品市場中,古人使用過的發釵也是熱門收藏品,特別是貴族使用過的發釵的收藏價值更高。發釵一般都是集材質和工藝于一體的藝術品。在 2009年香港春交易中,“松竹堂珍藏犀角雕”專場無疑成為了市場關注的焦點之一。與眾多大型犀角杯相比,一件長30厘米,重16克的明(或更早)御制犀角發簪,以其精湛工藝而格外引人注目,也是發簪精湛制作工藝的一個縮影。取犀角做發簪十分罕見。

In the collectibles market, the hairpin used by the ancients is also a popular collectibles, especially the hairpin used by nobles has higher collection value. Hairpin is generally a collection of materials and technology in one of the works of art. In the Hong Kong Spring Trade in 2009, "rhinoceros horn carving in songzhutang collection" has undoubtedly become one of the focuses of the market. Compared with many large rhinoceros horn cups, the Ming Dynasty (or earlier) Royal rhinoceros horn hairpin with a length of 30 cm and a weight of 16 g is particularly attractive for its exquisite craftsmanship, which is also a miniature of the exquisite craftsmanship of hairpin. It is very rare to use rhinoceros horn as hairpin.

 

 

 

 

 

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